The weather forecast wasn’t looking good, thunder and rain was forecast. Perhaps we wouldn’t get to do the Drei Schwestern, the main bit of the ridge.
I stumbled on Route 66, the Panoramaweg, for Lichtenstein by chance. The idea of traversing a country in a weekend was very appealing.
Route 66
If you look at the long distance walking routes in Lichtenstein you’ll come across loads. Lichtenstein has the greatest density of footpaths than any other European country. It also has two routes which traverse the length of the country – Route 66 which crosses the mountain range, and the Lichtenstein trail, which follows the valleys and is possible to do on bikes.
We chosen the Panoramaweg as being in the mountains appealed.
Route 66, is better known as being part of the Alta Via – the long distance trail which traverses the whole of the Alps. Completing the Lichtenstein section of this trail also appealed.
Day 1 – Malbun to Pflazerhutte
Having spent the night in the capital Vaduz, we had a casual morning and then caught the bus around to Malbun – the southern end of the route.
Route 66, isn’t exactly a straight line as it traverses all the tops within Liechtenstein. So the walk from Malbun left the bus stop and headed uphill on a good track to gain the ridge.
Once on the ridge the route actually heads south to get to the first stop at the Pflazerhutte.
The ridge is easy walking. I assume there is amazing views, but it was foggy and raining as we traversed the ridge, so we could have been in the UK!
This is a popular section of trail, as it’s easy and the hut is the highest in the country. It also makes a good day hike from Malbun as you can descend easily from the hut to the valley.
It is only 6km or so hiking to get to the hut, along the ridge and over Austenberg summit, so despite a later start we still arrived there around 2pm.
After a quick break we decided to drop some kit off and head up the adjacent peak, Naafkopf.
Whilst not technically part of the route, Naafkopf is a good addition, as it forms the border between Lichtenstein, Austria and Switzerland. It’s only an hour to the summit from the hut.
Make sure you sign the summit book!
The Pflazerhutte is in a great location and we had a lovely evening chatting to Austrians, Italians and Germans – all exploring the principality.
Day 2 – the Drei Schwestern
After a good nights sleep and a typical Swiss mountain hut breakfast of bread, cheese and Bircher muesli, we headed off for the second day.
Knowing we had 22km to do and some of it a bit rocky, we were keeping an eye on the weather to ensure it was safe to be on the mountain tops. The forecast had been for thunderstorms so there was a chance we’d have to bail out. I wasn’t concerned as Lichtenstein has fabulous public transport so if that happened we’d just walk down to a town and get a bus back to Vaduz.
The route to the Gadfadurahutte initially went downhill into farm land. Which meant cows, mud and plenty of wildflowers.
Once down to the river, it circles the valley and traverses to reach a cafe and the road at Stucka. Here there’s a spring to top up water and a place to get snacks if needed.
From Stucka the route heads up the road a short way before picking up the trail.
From here it heads into the mountains and the best bit of the route, the Drei Schwestern. Technically, route 66 misses the most technical section as it drops down briefly into Austria, but even if you do this, the route is still epic.
The path climbs up amongst the trees and as you start to get above the tree line you can see the route ahead.
We had a moment of indecision here, as it was raining and we were unsure if it would get stormy as forecast. In which case being on the ridge wouldn’t have been a good idea.
The rain eased and we decided to continue, knowing there is an escape path before the most technical section.
The path looks more difficult than it is, as it traverses around the Alpspitz. While exposed in places it has cables when needed.
Eventually the path reaches a junction, to either summit the Alpspitz or continue on the Drei Schwestern and route 66.
Here the ridge is flanked by shrubs and we were lucky for the sun to come out.
Eventually after ups and downs the ridge ends and you descend down (leaving the Alta Via trail) to the Gadfadurahutte, with its wonderful outdoor washing facilities!
Day 3 – Ruggell and the finish
It was raining as we left the Gadfadurahutte and descended through the woodland. The final section of the trail isn’t difficult as it’s mostly downhill, but it is still reasonably long at 19km.
The first place the route passes through as it reaches civilisation, is Planken, which is skirts the southern edge of before doing the same at Nendeln.
It then winds through the woodland before dropping through Schaanwald and crossing fields to reach the town of Mauren.
We stopped at Mauren as the local bakery had just opened so we paused for a coffee and a pastry.
From here the route climbs up the hill on the road, to the little hill of Schellenberg, and traverses above a long crag through the woods.
As it circles around and drops down the other side you arrive at the border town of Ruggell.
It feels strange as there’s no official end to the trail. But as with all towns in Switzerland and Lichtenstein, there is a bus to take you where you need to go, so we didn’t have to wait long to get back to Vaduz.
Exploring Vaduz
Most people who visit Liechtenstein pop into Vaduz for a day trip from Switzerland, but the principality as much more to see than that. Even if you don’t explore route 66 or the other Liechtenstein trail.
Vaduz castle isn’t open to the public but is worth a walk up to see and for a view across the valley.
There is also a vineyard, which wasn’t open the day we had in town.
It’s also worth visiting the old bridge just out of town as it’s interesting in its own right but also as a border crossing.
The museums in Vaduz are also worth a visit and there is a lot of art scattered around town.
